Thursday, August 31, 2017

An exceptional Siyeh Pass hike: Grizzlies, wolves holding elk at bay

The elk aren't just cooling off, see the wolf pack circled in this photo by Katie Kotynski

Good sized momma griz and cub above Boulder Creek lake

At Siyeh Pass where we watched the elk-wolf drama
We headed to Glacier last Saturday hoping to escape the many fires and smoke enveloping north central Montana.
We found pockets in the park of hazy, rather than smoky skies.  But, uniformly the smoke curtain came down in the afternoons.
What set our hiking apart on Saturday's Siyeh Pass hike was the wildlife.
When we got to the Pass for lunch we looked down Boulder Creek and the lake at its head and watched a large mother grizzly and cub descending through the brilliant red rocks.
It appeared as though there were numerous large rocks in the lake, which we viewed from about 2,500 feet above it.  Then, it seemed as though the rocks moved.
Katie scoped them with her telephoto lens and discovered a herd of a dozen cow elk in the water up to their bellies guarded by a large bull elk.  They would move around from time to time.
We watched for about 45 minutes and concluded that they were cooling off on this hot and smokey day.
The Fall colors show themselves in huckleberries at the trail-side
When we got home the following night Katie started to examine her photos and discovered five wolves in the grass in front of the lake!
The wolves had chased the elk into the lake and held them there, where the bull protected them.
That's a lot of wildlife, and wildlife in a real dramatic scene.
On other trips we've seen bighorns and mountain goats cavorting on the permanent snowfield above the drainage.
We did the hike from Siyeh Bend to Sunrift Gorge, some 10.4 miles with an elevation gain of 2,300 feet and drop of 3,500 feet. The skies were bright blue on the way up and a heavy smoke, probably from the Sprague Creek fire near Lake McDonald on the west side.
The St. Mary Valley was filled with smoke as well.
On the hike it was interesting to see the fire scars from the 2015 Reynolds fire that burned up the Sunrift Gorge.  The limber pine trees were scorched and their twisted remains are reminiscent of the trees on the Scenic Point hike at Two Med.
On Sunday we went back to Two Med and did a short moose scouting hike on the south shore trail, with a stop at Aster Falls.
We noticed there and in Sunrift the volume of water is quite high, probably from melting glaciers and snow.  The Sexton Glacier on the east side of Going to the Sun Mountain is disappearing fast.
The limber pine ghosts above Sunrift Gorge from the 2015 Reynolds Fire

Katie at Siyeh Pass.  We watched climbers ascend the Cracker Mountain ridge behind her

Sunday, August 27, 2017

HQ Pass to Our Lake Traverse

Gordon Whirry ascends to top of "Pass Peak" on traverse with Baldy Peak in background
Taking a break above Our Lake

The stroll to the lake from the saddle
I do this Headquarters Pass to Our Lake Traverse about every other year.
It is extremely scenic, taking in the Sawtooth Range/Bob Marshall Wilderness high peaks, and giving the hiker a range of route-finding options.
It begins at the end of the South Fork Teton Road northwest of Choteau.  The trailhead there is a main artery into the Bob Marshall Wilderness and travels to both Headquarters Pass and Our Lake.
Since I had been to Our Lake already this year, I decided to start at Headquarters Pass, a trail that is 3.5 miles long and gains 2,000 feet.  It passes by a couple of beautiful waterfalls and a large spring in the basin below Rocky Mountain Peak, the highest point in the Bob.
This is also the route for climbing Rocky if you are so inclined.
At the pass views of the heart of the Bob unfold to the west, looking down on the North Fork Sun and to the Chinese Wall above Moose Creek on the horizon.
Unfortunately, we were smoked in and got hazy views of the North Fork and nothing of the Wall.
At this point there are several off-trail choices, but ultimately you must pass to the north where there is a saddle high above Our Lake.
Facing the ridgeline of an unnamed mountain I like to call "Pass Peak" the easy route is through the scree and talus to the west of the ridge, angling up and to the northwest until you reach the saddle.  On Wednesday, we chose to climb Pass Peak, about 1,000 feet above Headquarters Pass.  If you do it this way you'll find it most easy a bit to the left of the ridge line.  But, you will need to use your hands on the first 250 feet of ascent.  The top of the peak is 8,571 feet, some 3,000 feet above and 4.1 miles from the trailhead.
Enjoy the tremendous views of Rocky and Baldy limestone 9,000 feet + peaks to the south and north, respectively, the Bob to the west and the Front and Great Plains to the east.
From here on out everything is a descent, and steeply so from the saddle.  Just below the saddle you'll find a stream bed.  Follow it down on its east side.  It drops to the lip of a cliff band and here you'll have to make another major decision.  It is possible to get into the stream bed at this point and carefully work your way down to the lake through the cliffs.  The scree can be treacherous, so proceed carefully as you descend.  In the early summer there is usually snow in this stream bed, making this option impossible.  The alternative is to follow a well worn game trail above the stream bed to the east until you deal with steep scree and a cliff band.  Be careful.
On Wednesday we opted for a third alternative, one that does not go to the lake directly.
Above the cliff bands and game trail we did a short climb up the ridge to the east and then descended through an open mountain-side, dropping to the Our Lake trail, about a third of a mile from the lake.
This is the easiest and least treacherous route, but requires a back track on the trail to reach the lake.
Then it is an enjoyable walk down the Our Lake trail back to the South Fork trail head.
Round trip:  8.4 miles.  Elevation gain:  3,030 feet.
The off trail section of traverse is marked in the fuschia color

Tuesday, August 22, 2017

Defying smoke, Blackleaf Canyon

Despite fires, Mount Frazier appeared clear on the Front up Blackleaf Canyon
I may have been denying myself unnecessarily this fire season.
I had limited my trips from what I could judge from smoke conditions in Great Falls.  If I couldn't see the Rocky Mountain Front, the Highwoods or the Little Belts I stayed home.
Such was the case Saturday when I passed on an opportunity to go to the Front for a Headquarters Pass-Our Lake traverse.   It was really socked in here, but the winds had shifted to the north.
Turns out it was a picture-perfect day on the Front with views of the Chinese Wall from HQ Pass.
So, I decided to test out the conditions Sunday, and despite the smoke in Great Falls headed to the Blackleaf Canyon in the Front.
The wind had shifted some and it was coming from the south, blowing some smoke into the Blackeaf.
But, it cleared sufficiently that I had very nice day hiking to the East Fork Teton divide behind Mount Werner, logging 7.5 miles and 1,800 feet in elevation.
I had clear views of Mounts Frazier and Werner, between which the trail passed, and even some blue sky.
I took it slowly and enjoyed the grandeur of the area and the solitude, although I did share it with a small herd of angus cattle.
I never tire of the canyon's high walls, walls inviting enough that they have rope climbing routes on them and I saw two climbers getting in position to test themselves on it.

Thursday, August 17, 2017

Rickard Canyons, a Little Belts surprise

While the state burns, meadows in Rickard Canyon remains green and lush

These three limestone peaks intrigued me

Canyon walls like those in the Gates of Mountains Wilderness

We were expecting a road and got a nice trail, probably maintained by outfitters

Caves everywhere in the limestone
The Little Belts continue to surprise and please.
On a Wayne's Wednesday hike combined with a Montana Wilderness Association exploratory we took a look at Rickard Canyon that part of the Middle Fork Judith Wilderness Study area.
This area is north and isolated from the star attraction of the Middle Fork, the river itself.  It is accessed from the road that cuts through the Judith Game Range and runs past the range headquarters.
We were told to expect to walk on a road part way and with this dusty and smoky season that prospect wasn't too enticing.
What we got was a walk up a couple of limestone canyons reminiscent of the Gates of the Mountains Wilderness with meadows filled with lush, (still) green high grass.  The air quality even cooperated, opening to bright if somewhat hazy skies.  At least it was somewhat clear while we were there.
What was supposedly a road receded within two miles to a nice hiking trail that's not on the map, but what has been maintained, probably by outfitters.
Butterflies on groundsel wildflowers
Pressed by time constraints we didn't follow the trail to its conclusion, a trail that was pointed straight at Kelly Mountain.  I figured we were about 1.5 miles below the peak, where there is a trail that travels across the Woodchopper Ridge to the south and Kelly and Yogo peaks to the north.
While we assumed that this area might be dropped from the WSA boundaries, we came away convinced that this is a worthy part of the study area, and would support a primitive use designation if outright wilderness is not approved.
As you drive through the South Fork area you realize there are dozens of these canyons in the Judith part of the Little Belts.
The battle for the Middle Fork Judith has been going on for more than 50 years.
The Rickard area should remain as it is.
Our route in fuschia color in relation to Judith Game Range in Little Belts

Friday, August 11, 2017

Into Glacier's Belly again, a trip that almost wasn't

The full moon rises over Mount Pollock as seen from our Flattop camp

At Cosley Lake in the Belly

One of the numerous waterfalls 
Glacier is bursting at the seams and I guess I should have seen it coming.
Annually I apply for the ultra-popular Highline Traverse hike online in March.  I've been on this trip once before on a friend's permit.
I always get a rejection notice or a drastic change of route, even when applying early when registration opens in mid-March.
It is a trip I'll apply for again because my brother, Dan, would love to take it.
What I got this year was a pale imitation of what I asked.  Instead of Granite, Fifty Mountain, Stoney Indian, Mokawanis, Cosley Lake campgrounds, I got West Flattop, Kootenai Lakes, and the dreaded Goat Haunt and Mokawanis Junction sites.
My brother passed, and I almost did.
Fourteen at our Kootenai Lakes camp one night

The Porcupine spire above Kootenai Lake

Gordon Whirry relaxes at Fifty Mountain
However, I took a last ditch chance and asked friend Gordon Whirry, a retired Great Falls architect who had never been in the Belly River area of the park if he'd like to give it a go.  He did, and, gladly, we went Aug. 5-9, a five-day 56-mile trip that covered the north end of the park up its gut from the Loop and Packers Roost to Waterton Lake, up and over Stoney Indian Pass, and out the Belly.
I was worried that the hot weather and the smoke from the many nearby wildfires might ruin the scenery.  It altered it, but the scenery was great, and even enhanced by the smoke at times.
We were extremely fortunate to be able to change our campsites.
We swapped the concrete and busy shelter at Waterton Lake's Goat Haunt for a second night at Kootenai Lakes and got Glenns Lake Head instead of Mokowanis Junction.
I had visited, but never camped at any of these sites in my four visits to the Stoney-Waterton-Belly country.  I had day-tripped to Kootenai Lakes, but never stayed.
Gordon Whirry calls it a trip
While I had been reluctant to spend a second night at Kootenai, it turned out fortuitous that we got that because the hike there from West Flattop was nearly 15 miles with 2,220 feet up and 3,600 feet down in blistering 88 degree heat and smoke.  We needed a down day.
I loved the burned over West Flattop, and we camped with a nice father and daughter team from Wisconsin, climbing the ridge line above the camp for a look to the Highline Trail and peaks to the east.
The burn enhanced the views as we enjoyed a nearly full moon that rose over the Logan Pass area to the south as we readied for sleep. Loop/Flattop hike was about 8 miles, with a 2,600 feet rise.  We added a couple hundred extra feet with the bushwhack to the ridge line.
On the next day's monster hike to Kootenai Lakes, we were surprised by the lack of water in the Fifty Mountain campsite, and had to go upstream to find some.
Our 5-day route through the park in fuschia color
The smoke obscured the lovely views of the glacier filled mountains in the Livingston Range to the west.  The wildflowers, though, particularly the lavender cut leaf daisies filled the grassy tundra beneath Cathedral Peak.
We were shocked to see so many dry streambeds in this otherwise wet, west-side landscape.
The dry and open mountain side gave way to the thick and brushy vegetation and we were glad to get into the trees at our shady and cool Kootenai camp.
The camp sits below the pointed spires of the Porcupine Ridge and the lakes are really advanced beaver ponds where we found feeding moose, ducks and Trumpeter Swans.
With four sites that allowed four campers per site, the camp was full.  The second night there were 14 campers vying for space in the food prep area.  The folks were friendly, cooperative and quiet at night, and it turned out to be a pleasant, social time.
On our down day we walked to Goat Haunt and did side hikes across the long suspension bridge over the Waterton River and Rainbow Falls, some 8.5 miles roundtrip with another 500 feet or so of elevation gained and lost.
I gave up my pipe dream of climbing the Porcupine Ridge lookout and enjoyed the rest day, looking ahead to a 3,000 feet climb to Stoney Indian Pass in the morning.
The hot weather broke some the second night with a cloudburst that left our tents wet, the humidity high and the dense vegetation along the trail soaked.
We suited in our rain gear for the slog through the brush up Stoney.
At the lake it was warmer, drier, and breezy, a perfect place for us to unload our packs and dry out our gear, before climbing the pass.
A Glacier Guide doing 70 pounds plus sherpa work for personality Jack Hanna and his wife

Glenns and Cosley Lake as seen from above Mokowanis 
Gordon Whirry near Cosley Cabin with Bear Mountain in background

At the pass, the best part of the trip began, the walk down to the Belly's lakes, passing numerous waterfalls along the way.  Waterfalls of all sorts hung from cliffs, fed by glaciers and snowfields beneath Cathedral, Wahcheechee, Kip and Stoney peaks.
When we arrived at our Glenns Lake Camp we were thrilled to find a shaded site right on the lake, a site even surpassing the beauty of the Kootenai camp.  We had walked nearly 12 miles this day.
In the morning we were awakened by the other-worldly screams of loons that got us going.
Our final day was spent walking the length of Glenns and then Cosley lakes, viewing the Gros Ventre Falls, being treated to the open views of this eastside exit that included massive Mount Cleveland, the highest point in the park and the country we had walked through from Stoney Indian Pass on down.
Then, we completed our trip with the 1,000 feet, 1.5 mile walk up to the Chief Mountain park entrance car lot, having walked another 13 miles on our final day.
It was a great trip, a surprise in the heat and smoke.
Impressive suspension bridge over Waterton River

We ran into lots of dry streams in this drought-stricken area

Thursday, July 27, 2017

A week's worth in Glacier and Great Bear

A "selfie" at Dickey Lake in Great Bear Wilderness
My wife took off for a week in the Bob Marshall Wilderness with her hiking group, so I took a solo run to Glacier Park and the Great Bear Wilderness.
Although Great Falls is filled with smoke from the many fires, the area I chose was clear and less hot.
In the park I backpacked into Morningstar Lake in the Cut Bank Creek drainage and went for a look at Ole Lake via Firebrand Pass, and in the Great Bear traversed Grant Ridge and was challenged by brush on the hike into Dickey Lake.
The park was quite full of tourists and campers and I found myself irritated by the crowds in East Glacier Park, which has obviously been "discovered," transforming it into a busy hub rather than a sleepy byway.
I camped one night at the park's Two Medicine Campground, but opted for the less busy and quiet Red Eagle Campground near the Two Med damsite at the turnoff to the park.  This Blackfeet run site is pretty disorganized and rustic, but the scenery (Scenic Point and Rising Wolf mountains) is stunning.  I hope the Blackfeet are successful with this.  This part of the park needs more campsites than the Two Med campground.

Finally, Morningstar Lake

Dawn breaks over Morningstar Lake in Glacier's Cut Bank Creek area

One of the two moose I had in camp, just a few yards from my backpack tent
I had been trying for a backcountry permit to backpack into Morningstar Lake for the past 10 years.  I was lucky enough to score one on this trip and thoroughly enjoyed the trip.
It is roughly 7 miles into the lake via Cut Bank Creek, but I added another 3 miles after setting up camp and going on to Pitamakan Lake.
I had seen Pitamakan Lake from the high ridge above it many times on annual Dawson-Pitamakan hikes, but had never been to the lake.  It was well worth the extra effort.
The camp at Morningstar Lake is very lovely, the lake more a beaver pond.  I did see a beaver at work there as well as two young bullmooses who grazed within 100 feet of my camp.
The walk from the Triple Divide/Pitamakan trail junction is open and lovely, showing off spectacular waterfalls, and Bad Marriage, Eagle Plume, Medicine Grizzly and Red mountains.
It was a hot hike, but it cooled off at night with strong breezes blowing through camp.
I was joined by a couple from Minneapolis who were going into Medicine Grizzly Lake, a nostalgia trip for the husband who had been taken there as a child.
When they left me at the Pitamakan junction I was joined by a Michigan hiker on his way to Two Med.
Folks in camp were not friendly and I did not meet them.
In the morning I walked out, passing maybe four groups on their way to Triple Divide.

Grant Ridge traverse in the Bear

Great Northern Mountain, highest point in the Great Bear, dominated the western horizon 
The large glacier on the north face of Grant peak in the Bear

Another selfie, this one at the Grant Ridge high point with southern Glacier Park peaks as backdrop

Over the years I've been trying to hit the various U.S. 2 portals into the Great Bear Wilderness and Glacier Park.
Grant Ridge traverse was one of those portals.
It begins at the Stanton Lake trailhead/parking area and climbs the west side of the ridge, breaking through at the ridge top and then returns via a walk down the top of the ridge that descends to the east and a hidden trailhead just off Highway 2 about fourth-tenths of a mile from the Stanton trailhead.
It was a perfect hike for a blazing hot day.  I was in the trees for most of the day, which opened in strategic parts revealing breathtaking views of Great Northern and Grant mountains, the two monarchs of the Great Bear.  Ripe huckleberries helped, too.  Where the trail to Stanton Lake splits, the Grant Ridge traverse is the left for and there is a wide stream crossing.
Once I hit the ridge line I got stunning views of Glacier Park's southern boundary including the St. Nicholas spire and two of the park's 10,000 foot monster mountains ---- Stimson and Jackson.
On the way up I could see milky green Stanton Lake recede as I climbed.
I did not see another person on this 11 mile roundtrip trail.  I gained and lost 3,700 feet.

A look at Ole Lake

Eagle Ribs peak dominates northwest skyline as seen from Ole Creek trail

Summit and Little Dog mountains above placid Ole Lake
Over the years I've returned time and again to Ole Creek, mostly hitting it from the U.S. 2 Izaak Walton Ranger Station.  Other times from the Fielding portal, which requires crossing the railroad tracks near the Snow Slip Inn.
I've been to the Ole Creek campground, and used Ole Creek to reach Scalplock Mountain and the boundary trail.
But until this trip, I had never been to Ole Lake at its head.
I had seen Ole Lake from the top of Summit Mountain.
I decided a long hike via Firebrand Pass would be my route to this remote backcountry lake and campground.
It meant starting at the Lubec trailhead, which required railroad track crossing.
I love the hike to Firebrand,  some 5 miles and a gain of 2,000 feet, but I had never been down the other side of the pass, and it was just too inviting not to go.
It was a hot and clear day, but for the first time in many years there was no hard west wind blasting me at the pass.
The surprise was how steep the pass is going down into Ole Creek.
Another surprise are the animal trails that criss cross the mountainsides.  It gave me some pause to decide which of the trails was the Park Service's Ole Creek trail.
It was another 3 miles down to the lake, the first 2 miles out in the open with terrific views of the back sides (north) sides of Summit and Little Dog mountains, so prominent from Marias Pass, and hidden and striking peaks like Eagle Ribs, Despair, Barrier Buttes, Soldier, Battlement and Skeleton.
I passed loudly through dense (grizzly) forest for another mile before reaching Ole Lake, a beautiful dark green lake in the shadow of Skeleton, Summit and Little Dog peaks.
I stayed awhile to drink in the remote beauty of this area before turning around the climbing back out to Firebrand and then Lubec.
To my great surprise I had seen no one all day long on this high summer day over 16.4 miles.
I had gained and lost almost 3,800 feet on this trek.

Dickey Lake in Great Bear

This snowfield calved into Dickey Lake while I was there

My first view of the lake
Chalk up another hike from U.S. 2.
I had seen the Forest Service signs for Dickey Lake for the past 45 summers, and avoided it, thinking that a lake so close to a highway and Glacier would be overrun.
In fact, it was the last hike of my trip and I wanted something easy to do after my hike to Ole Lake the day before and saw that it is only 5.4 miles in length roundtrip.
Boy, did I get my signals mixed up!
It turns out that this is a very challenging hike despite its brevity.
This hike is located just one Forest Service Road west of Essex, and three miles up a logging road to a cramped parking area on the road itself.  Forget parking at the trailhead, some 75 feet above the logging road.
There's a wade across Dickey Creek.
It didn't take long for this overgrown trail to close in on me and I found myself walking in thimbleberries, elderberries, cow parsnip, alders and stinging nettles above my head.  I found the trail by feeling my way forward in a small rut.  There was no way I could see a "trail" most of the way.  
There were occasional glimpses of what was to come ---- a headwall with a big waterfall that I knew I would have to ascend to reach the lake.
At one point I lost the trail altogether in a large fern thicket that tossed me about.
This is where I think I lost my bear spray.
That gave me plenty to think about as I thrashed about in some of the most prime grizzly habitat I've ever seen.
At the headwall, the vegetation became less intense, and to my surprise there was a pretty good, but extremely steep climbers trail for the final two-tenths of a mile and 600 feet of vertical.
With several vegetable belays I reached the lake and felt that I had accomplished something and was richly rewarded with a great view.  It had taken me 3.5 hours to cover the 2.6 miles to the lake!  Because I knew the route on the way down, it took me 2 hours and 15 minutes.  I had gained and lost just 1,400 feet. 
Some easy hike!
At the south end of the lake are a couple of snow fields, one which calved into the aqua colored water with a crash while I was there.
High above there were waterfall rivulets coming off other snow fields.
I drank in the beauty of the area for more than an hour before my most tentative trip down the steep headwall.
I'm not sure I've ever seen such a crude Forest Service trail.
But what the heck, this is wilderness, man.
The waterfall at the Dickey Lake headwall

This was my "trail."

Wednesday, July 19, 2017

Old favorites: Patrol, Route Creek Pass, Our Lake, Pioneer Ridge

Enjoying a gorgeous day at Our Lake

Mark Hertenstein fights gale-force winds just below Route Creek Pass

The new Bob Marshall Wilderness boundary sign on Patrol Mountain Trail 

The past couple of weeks have been filled with family obligations and a trip to the Calgary Stampede.
But, I still managed to get out and enjoy quick trips to old favorite destinations in the Front:  Patrol Mountain, Route Creek Pass, Our Lake and the Pioneer Ridge in the Little Belts.
Of note are the new Bob Marshall Wilderness Area boundary signs posted on Route Creek and Patrol Mountain trails, reflecting the boundary changes made by the Heritage Act two years ago.
Particularly surprising is the wilderness sign immediately at the beginning of the Patrol Mountain trail near the trail head on Straight Creek.  It is a nice, large new sign that adds "Helena" to the name of the Lewis and Clark National Forest reflecting the administrative consolidation of the two forests.
The boundary for the Bob on the Middle Fork Teton River is now four miles up the trail toward the pass rather than the pass two miles further up the trail.
The Our Lake boundary marker is a simple marker that could be easy to miss, and about a mile from the trail head.
Each visit to the Front reinforced how special this area is.  I find myself savoring, rather than rushing through the hikes, more intent on the experience rather than the destination.
We experienced gale-force winds on Route Creek, where we abandoned plans to climb Old Baldy.
A large grizzly track not far from a scat pile filled with undigested buffalo berries

 We found many ripened buffalo berry bushes, and a nice grizzly track and some scat with undigested berries.  Smoke from forest fires filled the air on our way to the trailhead, but otherwise we had a pretty clear day.
Samantha Chapman was on her day off and away from the Patrol Mountain lookout, so I missed her for the first time in many years.  I think this might be her 15th or 16th year at the lookout.
We took neighbor kids up to Our Lake and found some snow remnants at the large waterfall fed by the lake.
I did the 5-mile Pioneer Ridge loop with a Colorado hiker in town for a family reunion.
The Patrol Mountain lookout cabin 
The large waterfall below Route Creek Pass