Venturing into Glacier Park: some observations

 

A plien air artist at the Goose Island stop

The iconic Goose Island shot everyone wants on a visit to the Park

Katie at Deadwood Falls on the Gunsight trail

A very clear view of Jackson Peak from the Overlook

I've never been so late in the summer to visit Glacier National Park.

Covid-19 made me Glacier-shy, not to mention that the Blackfeet have closed all eastern entrances to the park.

It was by happenstance that I visited on Sunday.

Friends were hiking the Jackson Overlook to Sperry/McDonald Lake Lodge walk-through and needed a car shuttle and we volunteered.

I'm glad we did, otherwise I don't think we would have done the park this summer.  I didn't like the idea I'd have to travel all the way to West Glacier, and the idea of being around people from all over the country who might be infected with Covid scared me.

While Logan Pass is open, access to the east side of the park (my favorite part of the park) is limited.  You can drive as far as Rising Sun campground where you are turned around and headed back to West Glacier.

The only services operating along Going to the Sun Highway are at Lake McDonald and Rising Sun.

I was worried that I'd be stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic on the highway and that the trails would be loaded with people.

Here's what we saw:

• Light traffic on the Going to the Sun Highway, except at Logan Pass
• It was a hot day and people crowded any stretch of water they could find.  McDonald Creek's rocky banks were loaded with (unmasked and socially un-distanced swimmers)
• Lake McDonald's shores were likewise full of people, but more socially distanced
• The Avalanche Lake area was mobbed by mostly unmasked people
• Parking was scarce at Logan Pass, but could be gotten
• The Rising Sun turnaround was loaded with people, as was the nearby beach.  People weren't wearing masks
• It was tough to maintain social distance on trails, although possible if you stepped far off the trail when people passed you.  I was the only person who donned a mask while being passed
• The Gunsight Lake trail we hiked had moderate traffic to Deadwood Falls and light beyond
• West Glacier's commercial district was an overrun beehive of people, most of whom were not wearing masks
• If you planned it properly, some marquee trails like Piegan Pass, Siyeh Pass, and Gunsight were doable, but crowded
• A drive through East Glacier Park revealed a ghost-town of shuttered businesses.  Only two restaurants, Serranos and the Whistle Stop, were open.  The Mercantile appeared to be on limited hours.  It appeared as though the Circle R was the only motel in town open.  Such iconic businesses as the Mountain Pine Motel, Brownie's youth hostel were shuttered.  The Blackfeet have posted signs telling non-reservation residents not to visit because of the Covid-threat.  This pandemic will certainly reshape this once-quaint and out of the way little reservation community.

I'm convinced that there is no way to properly socially distance in the park.  National parks are where people congregate.  There's going to be contact.  There will be transmission of the Covid virus.

On one hand, I was glad to see the park, particularly the shut-down east side (St. Mary Lake, Red Eagle, Divide, Little Chief, Goat, Going to the Sun, Siyeh mountains).  However, passing on trails is inherently dangerous, and people are flocking to the trails.  I can only imagine the threats to people who have chosen to stay at Sperry and Granite Park chalets.

I was surprised at the relatively light visitation on this high-summer, beautiful day.  Driving the Going to the Sun Highway was a dream.

I do question the wisdom of opening the park, as much as I enjoyed it.

We also stopped at Marias Pass for the short hike to Three Bears Lake (no moose sitings!) and the Forest Service Campground at the Pass.  This very nice campground, which offers not only handy access to the park, but the Badger Two Medicine portion of the Helena Lewis and Clark National Forest, had plenty of empty campsites even late in the day.  Go figure.