Thursday, August 01, 2019

High season in Glacier; thoughts on East Glacier Park

Bull moose in Fishercap Lake near Many Glacier has "deer" company

Alpine glow over Two Med's Mount Henry

Magenta Indian Paintbrush wildflowers in Preston Park

Our group in the beargrass below Siyeh Pass
We enjoyed a family trip to Glacier Park over a four day period, retracing old hikes, this time to include some Kansas in-laws of Katie's daughter, Beth.
Mark and Marcus Pruett, from Holton, KS, did so well I revoked their "Flatlander credentials."
I took them up Scenic Point and to Upper Two Med Lake in Two Medicine and then on the Siyeh Pass to Sunrift Gorge traverse off Going to the Sun Road.  On a separate day I threw in a walk around Two Med Lake.  We also did an evening trip to Many Glacier after the hikers had cleared out for the day.
I saw moose at Upper Two Med Lake, Fishercap Lake, and on the trail while circling Two Med Lake.  There were grizzly and black bears at various spots as well.
Most notably the wildflowers were outrageously copious and colorful.
We caught Preston Park below Mount Siyeh at its seasonal best with magenta Paintbrush, asters, buckwheat, beargrass, and much more.
Two days later I retraced the route, only this time in reverse and by myself.  It had been years since I had done this hike by starting at Sun Rift.  It is a bit more taxing doing it this way;  it is 3,600 feet elevation gain to the top, and 2,300 feet down to the Siyeh Bend.  You can see how the reverse would have been easier uphill.  I thought it better for me to gain more elevation and lose less because I've got a knee that acts up on steep downhill and two days earlier it gave me problems descending 3,600 feet.

East Glacier Park concerns

Of concern is a transitioning East Glacier Park, the charming village at the base of the Two Med Valley.  The Blackfeet tribe, on whose reservation it resides, has done a great job keeping it free of the franchise and commercial rot that infects the west side of the park.
However, there are some unsettling developments since the death of Terry Sherburne, the late owner of the Mountain Pine Motel (our favorite) nearly two years ago. The motel is being ably run by his nephew, but Terry and Doris, his mother who died not long after, were irreplaceable as community unifiers. First off, motel rates have spiked upward nearly putting them out of reach for us locals.  Kayak lists the average price for a motel is $220 per night, although Mountain Pine, Jacobson's and Sears are far less, but still expensive. Then Linda Chase tore down the old Whistle Stop Restaurant and the rebuild has been slower than she expected, leaving the town with one less place to eat.  She hopes to have it open the the final month of tourism season.  The Sears Motel, which has been in bad shape, sold and continues to decline.  Serrano's Mexican Restaurant also sold and the menu prices increased and offerings changed.  The large restaurant on Highway 2, formerly the Village Inn, simply did not open this year, placing additional pressure on the remaining eateries.  Brownie's and the Whistle Stop are no longer owned by the same owner.  Brownie's is now owned by Terry Chase, Linda Chase's step-son.   There seems to be fewer Rez dogs and no dominant dog like Fat Boy, the Cerulean Bear Dog, who died a number of years ago.
On the positive side there's still the Glacier Park Lodge, the elegant resort with expensive rooms, but excellent dining facilities. (Hint:  cheaper to eat in the lounge than dining room and the food is the same).
You can't go wrong at the Two Med Grille if you're looking for local flavor at a traditional diner.  It serves "Pies for Strength," the double butter crust specialties developed by the former owners of the St. Mary Park Cafe, and now baked at the excellent Rock and Roll Bakery down the street from the General Mercantile that also carries the baked goods and pastries.
I suppose I'm mourning the passing of characters like Sherburne and his mother and the sale of Serrano's and will have to get used to the change.  When I feared what happened to the Park Cafe a number of years ago when it sold in St. Mary  it brought those wonderful pies to East Glacier.  I eagerly await the reopening of the new and expanded Whistle Stop.
I pray that the charm of this funky place is not lost.

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